Trattoria del Teatro

Trattoria del Teatro

Fabriano, Italy

A no-frills trattoria on a side street near the Teatro Gentile in Fabriano. The menu changes with the season. In winter, mazzafegato appears grilled alongside polenta and local greens. The wine list favors Verdicchio from nearby Cupramontana. Paper tablecloths. Handwritten specials on a chalkboard. The kind of place where the owner takes your order from memory.

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Sausages served here

Mazzafegato

Mazzafegato

Marche & Umbria, Italy

Mazzafegato is central Italy's pork liver sausage, born from the winter pig slaughter in the Marche and Umbria regions. The name comes from 'ammazzare il fegato' (to kill the liver), a blunt label for a blunt sausage. Two versions exist: dolce, with orange zest, pine nuts, and raisins; and piccante, spiked with chili. The sweet version is an oddity in Italian charcuterie, a technique traceable to ancient Roman preservation methods. This is a salume povero, a poor man's sausage that turns liver and scraps into something worth seeking out.

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