La Brigada
Buenos Aires, Argentina
A San Telmo institution wrapped in football memorabilia (Maradona's jersey hangs on the wall). La Brigada is famous for one rule: no steak knives. The waiter cuts your bife de chorizo with the edge of a plate to prove how tender the meat is. The achuras course here is serious. The morcilla is thick, short-linked, and grilled over quebracho charcoal. The filling has a pronounced cumin note. Waiters in white jackets move through a dining room packed with framed photos of old Buenos Aires. Book ahead or prepare to wait on the sidewalk.